Posted in My Makes, Sewing

Colette Sorbetto, Hacking the Hack with homemade bias binding

I decided to hack a hack and make a slightly different version based on Collette’s Sorbetto top.

New techniques/skills
– making my own bias binding
– darts
– Making my own pattern

What I need to work on
– cutting bias binding stripes
– rolled hems
– darts

From the original Collette pattern I made another pattern, this time keeping the darts but I added the length and curved hem at the bottom.  I again took out the centre panel and left off any front pocket.  I also picked somewhere inbetween the original and original hack neck lines and drew a new neckline using my french curve

I used my favorite french seams for the sides and shoulders.

I kept the bust darts this time round they aren’t perfectly symmetrical but I don’t think that is noticeable when being worn.   It was a bit of a faff trying to sew in exactly the correct place especially ending them in the correct place
I did give using my rolled hem foot a couple of goes on some scrap fabric but couldn’t get more than 3cm of nice rolled hem before it all went wrong.  I think it might work better with a much lighter fabric – and probably a lot more practice.
Not wanting to mess things up completely I faked a rolled hem with regular stitching and ironing, and it is a little better then my previous top.

The big deal this time round was my matching material bias binding.  Which was a project all on its own.

Ever one to get the most for my money I used the largest disguarded scraps of my material to make the bias binding.  This did mean I had a lot more seams then maybe would have been ideal but it gave me more practice and waste not want not.

Using not that large a piece of material did have one advantage though, it meant I could use my sturdy 30cm ruler to guide my rotary cutter most of the way.

I have a lovely long 1m ruler but it is too chunky to run my rotary cutter along side.

Cutting strips was probably the hardest part of this task.  I drew out my lines in fabric pen, then placed my ruler along each line and tried to cut carefully.  I had a few wonky ends where my ruler ended or I managed to go slightly off course and every time I did so two strips were affected.  However I had more than enough strips to edge the neckline and armholes plus the wonky edges are are not seen once you sew in the bias binding so it all worked.

The second trickiest part was sewing the strips together,  slightly wonky ends don’t help when you want to make balanced exact diagonals.  Also I sewed off the end a couple of times.  But the most challenging part was  getting everything the best way round to connect right sides to continue with raw edges underneath.  I had several moments when I realised after sewing two pieces together that I either had one back to front or I had the raw edges showing.  (there is one raw edge on display that I didn’t notice until after I had had attached it to the top.  But the edge is cut very short so it isn’t that noticeable,  I left it as is on the top.

Having purchased a set of these bias binding maker tools – off ebay a cheaply as I could for quick delivery – I had some fun figuring out what to do with it.  They are a little fiddly to use but once you get started they work well, if you keep ironing as you go.  Getting that good pressed line meant slow work.  Only letting a little material through at a time is the trick.  When I was finished I kept the iron and anything else heavy I could find on my newly made binding to help it really keep the shape on the folds lines.

I like the result, and I like this top better than my first Sorbetto, though it is maybe a still a bit roomy I think the bust darts do give it a better shape.  I also prefer the slightly higher neck.  Again I made this out of a similar weight cotton to the first and think fabric with a little more drape might have worked better.

I will be calling this one a success though as I have been washing and wearing regularly since making.


3 thoughts on “Colette Sorbetto, Hacking the Hack with homemade bias binding

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